Number Three

You remember the commercial with the Russian accent saying "What a country!"? Well, yesterday afternoon, Nancy and Bob Row hosted a Christmas party in their home. All I can say is, "What a party

All sorts of food, desserts, and drink spread across tables greeted us as we walked in. Everyone was required to wear a Christmas hat. We all brought presents to exchange, and the final event was bashing a Mexican piñata filled with candy and gifts.

I was touched by Will Kelley,s present to me. Before the gift exchange, I was asked to draw a number. I pulled a number 3. Will said I thought I pulled that number. I reached into the bag and again the number 3 came up. He asked Bev to pull a number. She pulled a number 3! Then Will presented me with a tin box decorated with pictures of Russell Wilson, the Seattle Seahawks quarterback, also #3.

When we all were in Isla Mujeres, will and I went to a sports bar and watched the Seahawks game. It was a good game but our team lost. I said I wanted a Seahawks cap. I opened the tin box and inside was an autographed picture of Russell Wilson. It said, "Mike and Bev--losing football games and suitcases sucks! Be careful out there.
Signed Russell Wilson #3 Go Seahawks!

Inside the tin can was a stonewashed blue cap with a Seattle logo with la calaca.

In Isla Mujeres, I put our house keys in my small black suitcase. When Bajiogo unloaded our luggage at our house, I discovered the suitcase was missing. We were locked out. Many phone calls later, we discovered Sheila had taken my suitcase as hers. We retrieved the suitcase, found the keys, and entered our house.

Inside the tin can was an empty Silk Almond milk carton. On the box were these words: Missing suitcase reward offered underneath a picture of the suitcase. On the back of the carton was a picture of the suitcase with these words: Missing suitcase. Please call Bev and Mike Landfair, because their keys are in it & they can't get into their house.

To top it off Will made a copy of our house key (NOT) and attached it to the inside of the hat so I would never be in that position again.

That whole gag took a lot of effort, planning, and a few pesos to pull off. It resulted in quite a few laughs. For me, I was touched at how generous Will is of his time how great friends are.

The Book Fair

Yesterday was the Book Fair at Casa Europa on Calle de San Francisco. The stone building could soon be the cultural center of San Miguel. 

I was there selling my book "The Way Back Poems of addiction and recovery." I called it a perfect Christmas gift for your drunk relatives. Ok, not everyone laughed. Maybe my humor was too close to home.

You have to be careful not to spend all your proceeds on things others are selling.  We did not make it. I sold three books for 200 pesos each, then Bev bought a calendar, three Christmas greeting cards, a necklace from Kristine Scherber and I bought two books. The first book was written by Margaret Paul titled "Conversations with Artists." The book includes conversations with Peter Leventhal, Keith Miller, Toller Cranston, the late Mary Rapp,  andTom and Donna Dickson, etc. Those are the artists I'm most familiar. The book is 258 pages and has many pictures. You can find it on Amazon.

My second book purchase was written by Marge Fahey titled "Under the Spell of San Miguel." This is an Insiders Guide to the city. Marge is a tour guide of House and Garden Tours advertised every week in Attencion.

The guide is a spiral bound notebook small enough to carry in your back pocket. It measures  4+ X 7+ inches. It is filled with answers to the newly arrived questions:

1. Getting Around
2. Etiquette and Useful Spanish Phrases
3. Historical Overview
4. Places of Interest
5. Calendar of Holidays and Fiestas - One of the first questions could be "What do the bells mean and what is the parade for?"
6. Classes
7. Cultural Events - Every year SMA celebrates my wife's birthday on September 16th with fireworks in the Jardin.
8. Day Trips - I recommend a trip to Canada de la Virgen Pyramid. You will get an overview of our history going back to the Mayans.Be sure to ask for Albert Coffey/ He will make the day trip memorable.
9. Tours
10. Markets
11. Restaurants - we have over 340 restaurants and this recently updated guide will help you out. My current favorites are La Parada, Firenze, and Don Lupe. I almost forgot don't miss Don Felix, Nirvana, Oko, and La Grotto, for pizza. Did I mention Fat Boy and Hanks for hamburgers or Birdies in DOCE 18?

You can buy her guide at the Biblioteca,

Halloween vs. Dia De los Muertos

We participated in both Halloween on 10/31 and the first night of Dia de los Muertos on 11/01 her in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. I am troubled by what I experienced.

Halloween here is very much like in the states. Kids say Trick or Treat when they ask for candy, except here there is no door to door "begging." Here the children come to the Jardin with their moms and dads, and the gringos, there could be Mexicans too, but I didn't observe any, hand out candy. Bev and I brought 20 to 30 pounds of candy each to the square in big bags. We were mobbed like pigeons after grain thrown on the ground. They were all polite and said Trick or Treat and gracias!

It is a treat to see all the little children dressed in costumes and painted faces.

Gringos seem to think they should dress in scary costumes. The children who don;t have bags or buckets to hold their candy hold outstretched hands in a begging posture. What have we taught the young children? Gringos provide lots of candy, they can be scary and begging Gringos works.

Dias de los Muertos is not about candy and being scared. It is a way to remember the dead children on night one and adults on night two. It is a time to visit a grave of a family member, sit down and drink and have a picnic and dwell on the life and relationships of the departed members of the family. There is a reverence in the culture for those who have gone on.

In the revolution when the streets were littered with the dead, it is believed that warriors came back as hummingbirds or butterflies, not ghosts.

We painted our faces and sat in the Jardin watching the people in all their costumes.
Earlier we stopped at Casa Chiquita for a wonderful pizza. A Mexican man came up to our table, and in a heartfelt way, expressed his pleasure in seeing the six of us observing Dia de los Muertos and respecting his culture.

I hope gringos will stress more the meaning of Dia de los Muertos and downplay the Halloween version.

Coincidences

Does this happen to you where you live? We live in San Miguel de Allende in central Mexico. Our town sits at 6,500 feet above sea level and is now the number one city in the world according to Travel & Leisure magazine.

We were introduced to a visiting couple by friends who are house sitting here until after Dias de los Muertos, Day of the Dead on November 1st. Many of the people who live here paint their faces for the day.  I asked the couple where they were from.

"Portland, Oregon." they said.

"My daughters live in Portland."

"Where do they live in Portland?"

"Raleigh Hills," I said.

"So do we! Whereabouts?"

"You know the Fred Meyer store on Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy? They live there."

"Across the street is 78th. What is the cross street?"

"Broadmore Terrace. My oldest daughter lives on Broadmore Terrace."

"So do we!" they both said. "Tell your daughters we own the Halloween house. They will know it."

As long as I live, I will never stop being amazed at the coincidences that crop up. Imagine, they travel 3,000 miles and they meet the father of a daughter who lives on the same street not 300 yards away.

Ain't life fun!

Best City Parks in the World

Condé Nast Traveler Chapultepec Park is an "urban forest" in the heart of Mexico City. While you're there, be sure to check out the zoo, the Castle of Chapultepec (which dually functions as the National History Museum), and Diego Rivera's Fuente de Tláloc, a famous fountain, and outdoor art installation. Getty Image

This is Not Usual in Mexico

The other day I took my propane tank and the Leland's tank to Don Pedro to exchange the tanks for filled tanks. I took a number and waited my turn. The Don Pedro employee said they didn't exchange tanks anymore. He said I would have to go someplace over by Liverpool, in the Luciernaga shopping center. Don Pedro is like a giant hardware store a mile or so south of the San Miguel glorietta. We had some trouble communicating in my meager Spanish.I hauled the tanks out to my car and I was about to take off when a well-dressed Mexican man knocked on my window. 

I couldn't understand him at first. I finally understood that if I would follow him, he would take me to the propane fill-up station.  He and an old man were in a white pickup. We turned right out of the lot onto the four-lane freeway, We drove about a half mile to a returno, turned around to the north and back to the glorietta. Turned right and up the hill to Liverpool. We passed the shopping center and came to another glorietta and turned right. We drove for another mile or so and took a left and drove north on a two-lane road.  

All the time I'm thinking am I nuts, following someone I don't know out into the country? After many topos, we turned left onto a dirt road that ended at Gas Exchange. I looked at my odometer and we had traveled about eight miles from Don Pedro. After a bit of waiting a man dressed in overalls came through the gate in a fence and my Mexican benefactor explained that I need the tanks filled. He waited with me. We managed to talk about his family and how long I've been in San Miguel. He has family here and a brother us the U.S. My new friend introduced himself as Aaron Martinez. 

Eventually, the Gas Exchange man came out with the two tanks. My tank was filled but the Leland's tank had a broken seal and needed a new valve.It couldn't be filled. Between the two men, I learned I needed a new Valve pronounced balba, Vs are Bs.  I would need to drive back to Don Pedro's buy a new balba, bring it back to the Gas Exchange man and he would put the new balba on and fill the tank. Aaron Martinez stayed with me the whole time and acted as my interpreter. We parted at the liverpool glorietta. I drove back to Don Pedros bought a new balba and returned to Gas Exchange. 

I thought Aaron's actions went above and beyond what anyone in Portland, Oregon would do. Is this unusual? You judge by this letter from Don McGilvrey: This text from a gringo friend of mine in San Miguel today . . .
“Today I am at a client's home and I am parked across the street from his house.   Been there an hour or so and it is raining cats and dogs.  I hear a car honking and look out the window and, wouldn’t you know it, there is police car parked next to my car.  I walked out and the cop was pointing out that my window was down a few inches.  The street was like a foot deep in water and I was fumbling for my keys.   He drove over up on the sidewalk and asked for my keys. I handed them to him. He drove across the street and parked up on the curb.  His partner got out and unlocked my door, put the key in the ignition and rolled up my window. Locked my door and he and his partner brought my keys back on the other side of the street.   He did this in the POURING ASS RAIN FOR ME!

Viva Mexico!”

I love these people

Our First Trip to Mexico City

July 25th was our 25th wedding anniversary! And they said it wouldn't last. I re-upped for another 25 years. If Bev will have me. So far, so good.

We spent four nights in Mexico City at the Red Tree House (RTH) a BnB in the Condesa Colonia. The place was highly recommended by friends here in San Miguel and received the #1 rating for BnBs in Mexico City. There are 27 rooms in the buildings, and it is a delight to stay there. Included in the price is breakfast in the morning and cocktail hour in the evening from 6:00 to 8:00. There are tables and sofas in three or four rooms, a fireplace and we all gathered to discuss the days sight seeing, what restaurants to go to, and find out where everyone is from.

Bev and I were unusual because we weren't just tourists, but we actually lived in Mexico and thus were asked many questions. Of course, there were many of the guests considering moving to Mexico.

The first night we dined at Roberta Trattoria. The food was very good and just three blocks from the RTH. I had Aglio olio capellini, and Bev had fettuccini with shrimp. She liked mine better. Bev's dish was pretty rich and bland. So she added red pepper flakes to give it some zest. The waiters no hablas ingles so we had a hard time getting them to bring pepper. I thought I heard them say peppino for pepper. That information led to an interesting story.

Sunday we went to the museos. We toured the Museum of Modern Art, Chapultepec Castle and tried to find the Museum of Anthropology. We walked eight miles that day. The Museum of Modern Art is a real asset to the city. It is a beautiful building, and the art is outstanding. I would go back again and again. With our INAPAM cards, for residentes, we got in free. Chapultepec sits at 7685 feet above sea level, and the site of the hill was a sacred place for Aztecs. The buildings atop the hill have served several purposes during its history, including that of Military Academy, Imperial residence, Presidential home, observatory, and presently, the National Museum of History. I was impressed with vases in one room that are taller than a tall man, made from malachite. I didn’t know you could get pieces of malachite that big.

The months of July and August bring the rainy season and usually about 4:00 mas o menos, the thunder begins. Soon you need an umbrella. We scurried for the RTH, a nap and then we would head down to the lobby to meet new friends. Sunday night we dined at Café Gloria. Again, within walking distance.

We ordered Grilled Shrimp for Bev and Caprece for me. Man was it good. Then we ordered pesto pasta, and Bev added some her shrimp to her pasta. Both restaurants were great, but we practically dined alone.

Monday, we took Uber to see Carlos Slim’s art collection. We were told it was worth $15 million. An aluminum sided modern structure houses his collection and inside the walkway winds upwards like the Guggenheim in New York City. Across the street from the Slim, the museum was the museum showing the Campbell Soup artist, Andy Warhol. However, it was closed on Monday.

Monday, night we went to another place nearby: La Capital. The menu is on the wall above the kitchen. It is large and filled with young and old, Mexicans and tourists. I ordered a roasted white fish seated on a bed of puree de papa, mashed potatoes, and covered with a delicious chipotle sauce. Bev ordered shrimp tacos. She loved hers, and I found the fish good, but it was pretty dense and very chewy, not flaky. We both would go again.

Bev wanted salt and pepper. We called the waiter over, and I ordered Sal y Peppino. He looked at me strangely and called over the captain of the front of the house. I told her we would like sal y peppino. They shook their heads. Soon the waiter approached with a shaker of salt and three slices of cucumber in a little dish. Peppino is a cucumber. I needed to order chile or la pimiento.

  

We dedicated Tuesday to Pablo Picasso and Diego Rivera. Near the Zocalo, downtown was a museum with a side by side comparison of their work. Picasso was five years older than Rivera, but their styles were similar until Rivera concentrated on Mexico and the indigenous people. Sometimes it was difficult to tell them apart when they both were in their cubist periods. We left there and went to the Diego museum at the end of Almeda Central, a park a little like Central Park. There we saw the painting that covers one whole wall. Local writer Beldon Butterfield received permission to use the painting on the cover of his book “Mexico Behind the Mask.”

We took a cab from the downtown to Colonia Roma. We scouted out the restaurants there for our anniversary dinner. After looking at many restaurants we decide on Maison de Famille. It was beautiful in a French way. We ordered Escargot to start then tomatoes sprinkled with olive oil. The waiter said the tomatoes were Mexican grown but from French stock. They tasted as they had just come off the vine. As great as any we had in Italy. Finally, the waiter brought us tenderloin in a black pepper sauce. Bev didn’t know if she would like the sauce, so the waiter brought her a small dish to taste test. Magnifique!

Wednesday, we had to go home but not before visiting the Frieda Kahlo house. Here the fee for entry was for us 31 pesos with our INAPAM card. Without the cards, it was 438 pesos. So bring your card. I was feeling like I was coming down with something. Maybe the food the night before was too rich. Bev went through the museum mostly by herself, while I sat in the shade under a tree. She came away with new appreciation for all the health problems suffered by Frida and her courage to live life regardless. For 25 years she was married to Diego Rivera. She died in a young woman in 1954.

I was impressed with Mexico City. You don’t see the raging poverty we know is there on the bus trip into the city. One of the largest in the world. It doesn’t seem that large. There is mucho traffico, and John Scherber calls the driving style “freestyle driving.” There seems to be free use of the horn. But the parts of the city we saw, remind me of the upper east side of New York. Tree-lined streets, lots of apartments, lots of pedestrians. The city works well with tour buses you can hop off and on; city buses, and subways. There is so much to see. Our next visit will take us to the pyramids and the floating gardens.

One last thing: the owners and employees of RTH are special. Extremely helpful who really care about their guests.  I would recommend the Red Tree House for your next trip to Mexico City.

This Is the Best City in the World to Travel to

Mexico's San Miguel de Allende has been named the top urban city of 2017 by readers of Travel + Leisure magazine, for its seductive mix of open-air cafes, artisan culture, and colonial charm. In the 2017 edition of the publication's World's Best Awards which solicits reader input, San Miguel de Allende took top honors, marking a first for both the city and the awards, now in its 22th year. The city in central Mexico attracts visitors for its well-preserved historic center, colonial architecture, leafy plaza, and rows of independent boutiques which line old cobblestone streets. The fortified town, which was founded in the 16th century, was also inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

The Way Back Poems of Addiction and Recovery

My first book ever is now available. If it hadn't been for San Miguel and the help I got from other writers, I probably wouldn't be out with this my first book of poems.

The Way Back

The Way Back details the power of poetry to illuminate the damage done by addiction and follows the process of recovery. As recovery in sobriety accumulates in days, months, then years, the senses open and feelings that have been anesthetized come to the surface. Those feelings are expressed in the poet's observations. The poetry is based on the true story of Michael Landfair's recovery and 29 years of sobriety. His sobriety wouldn't have been possible without the fellowship of Alcoholics. Anonymous.

36 Hours in Mexico City & Teotihuacan

THE WORLD'S 6 MOST OVERLOOKED FOOD CITIES FOR FOOD LOVERS

The Thrillist says, "Here's how you know a city is a food capital: when you return from a visit and the first question your friends ask isn't what museums you visited, what beaches you loafed on, what mountains you climbed. Nah, you know it when they blurt, "What did you eat?"

Mexico City, Mexico A world-class hub of food and culture, so close and so very cheap

Why you should go: Clued-in travelers have long headed to this pulsing metropolis of 21 million souls, where they've explored world-class museums, a vibrant independent art scene, and stunning colonial architecture. And while Mexico City's profile is definitely on the rise, the Ciudad de Mexico, or CDMX as it's known locally, remains an overlooked destination in comparison to the shining stars in the firmament of international travel. That's a downright shame: with its warm, welcoming culture, leafy, tree-lined colonias, and wonderfully delicious food, there are endless reasons to visit Mexico City. It can go head to head with the world's more touristed cities any day -- and at a fraction of the price.

What you'll be eating: Few places in the world take eating as seriously as Mexico City. Street food reigns supreme, and you can hardly walk a few steps without being enticed by the aromas wafting from the little carts where hard-working, immensely talented cooks serve up delectable (and cheap -- we're talking less than $3 for a complete lunch) snacks all day long. In the morning, visit a tamalero, a vendor who serves hearty, corn-based breakfast items: in addition to tamales, he'll offer sweet cinnamon-and-vanilla-scented cups of atole, a hot, smooth corn drink. Ready for lunch? Seek out a tlacoyo, an eye-shaped disc of blue corn masa griddled and stuffed with creamy mashed fava beans or porky chicharron. Mexico City's tacos are equal to all the hype, available all day in every neighborhood, and filled with a huge range of meats. For a taste of the ultra-local, look for tacos al pastor, little corn tortillas folded around seasoned pork and warm, juicy bits of sweet pineapple. Said to be brought to the Mexico City area by Lebanese immigrants in the 19th century, the style has proliferated across the country but reaches its apex in CDMX.

If you're the type of diner who prefers an unhurried, sit-down meal, take note. In recent years, the city's fine-dining scene has exploded: star chef and CDMX native Enrique Olvera's Pujol, located in the tony neighborhood of Polanco, is probably the best-known example. It more than merits its many accolades, plating refined fare that demonstrates an intimate knowledge of traditional Mexican ingredients deployed in surprising ways -- and at about $100 for a seven-course meal, it won't blow up a vacation budget. Other excellent white-tablecloth restaurants include nearby Quintonil, where Jorge Vallejo creates Instagram-worthy dishes that taste as good as they look, and Maximo Bistrot, a cozy little corner spot in Roma with an excellent wine list.

What to do between meals: The vast expanse of Mexico City is divided into diverse neighborhoods known as colonias, and one of the most rewarding activities is to stroll among them, leisurely taking in the bustle of the city. Architecture buffs should check out Roma Norte, where expansive early-20th-century mansions now house cultural centers, bookstores, and art galleries; nightlife lovers can bar-hop around Condesa, the city's most tourist-friendly area, packed with cafes and clubs. The art of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, Mexico City's famed twice-married couple, is on display all over the city, but for a more unusual glimpse into the life of the former, visit the Museo Anahuacalli in Coyoacan, which houses Rivera's unparalleled collection of pre-Columbian art and artifacts. Gallery enthusiasts can hit up Kurimanzutto, which represents pan-media modern artist Gabriel Orozco and relative newcomer Labor. For local color, CDMX's main square, the Zocalo, is always fun to walk around, and Chapultepec, the city’s Central Park, offers an oasis of green apart from the packed and frenetic streets of Downtown. -- Lauren Rothman, Thrillist contributor

The 10 Best Places in the World to Retire in 2017

There’s a new best country in the world to retire, according to the experts at International Living (IL), an authority on global retirement and relocation opportunities. In its Annual Global Retirement Index, Mexico — one of the most popular countries among U.S. expats — has edged out last year’s No. 1, Panama.

But truth be told, Mexico (which was ranked No. 3 in 2016), Panama and Ecuador are within a hair of each other in the new International Living rankings. “There’s just a tenth of a percentage point difference in their total rankings,” said Dan Prescher, an International Living senior editor who lives with is wife Suzan Haskins in Cotacachi, Ecuador.

See the whole article at NextAvenue.