The World’s Best Cities for Food

No matter where in the world you’re traveling, you’re going to eat. And if you plan to make that a very important part of your trip (which we suggest you do), consider heading to one of the world’s best cities for food.

7. San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

But this year, says Melanie Lieberman of Travel + Leisure, lesser-known destinations received accolades for their restaurants and cuisine, including the colonial city of San Miguel de Allende, in Mexico’s central highlands. Travelers will find bars serving small-batch mezcals from Oaxaca, and (believe it or not) a croissant at Cumpanio that will rival any ordered in Paris.

Walking to Breakfast

By Beverly Landfair

La Vanda Restaurante with Theresa our wait person

If you are contemplating visiting us in the future, we will be walking to breakfast at LaVanda Restaurante.  Located just off Umaran on Calle Hernandes Marcias, LaVanda is a small but quaint cafe that serves us one excellent breakfast.  We have not had the pleasure of having lunch here but that will be another story.

Michael and I just had returned from a nearby lab after having to submit to blood draws, etc. for securing some Mexican Medical Insurance for us.  We were ravenous after our twelve hour fast and in need of strong coffee.  Their home brew did not disappoint.  Now, I could concentrate on ordering breakfast.

Beverly and the coffee fix

I ordered Eggs Toscanos, two poached eggs presented like presents on my plate; mozzerella dollop and a generous amount of Basil Pesto accompanied by roasted tomatoes on the side.  My breakfast also came with a fruit bowl and toast with Guava Jam.  I was having a blissful experience.

Michael ordered his favorite, French Toast with fruit with a side of bacon that arrived in a small bowl and was crispy and delicious.  I know because he thankfully shared some with me.  We will be satiated until dinner with friends tonight!

La Vanda Restaurante

Atmosphere is part of making any culinary experience work, in my book. Lavanda has many rooms, natural stone and has been set up to make you feel like you are breakfasting at your friend's home.  I give LaVanda high marks.

Buen Provecho!

Have You Tried Agua Miel For Brunch?

By Beverly Landfair

Musicians at Agua Miel

Walking into Agua Miel for brunch is like going to a good friend's home and enjoying a late breakfast on the patio. Agua Miel means honey water, and I think that the name is as gentle as the scene.  Live music is playing the Sunday sounds of flute and guitar.  The tasteful music goes so spritely with the Bloody Mary's that two of our foursome ordered.  Let me say, "perfecto!"  

Agua Miguel Patio

Kristine and I ordered the wonderfully prepared Frittata with leeks, potatoes and zucchini.  I could see the butter on top.  The flavors blended well together. We enjoyed ours with a side of bacon.  Michael had waffles with berries and syrup and a side of bacon. John ordered The Jambalaya and I could tell he was enjoying the shrimp, chicken, pork riblet and andouille sausage with garlic toast that he let us share.

After we finished eating, we lingered and had desert and coffee and good conversation.  Our two and one-half hour brunch came to an end and we all happily doddled home.  FYI:  For two with tip = 400 Pesos or $26.67. 

Mexican Peso Plunges To 16/USD - Record Lows

The Mexican Peso has devalued 23.5% in the last 12 months, breaking 16.00/USD for the first time in history today.

Charts: Bloomberg

This is the fastest collapse in the currency since Lehman.

This is terrific for tourists and for expats, but it is a hardship for the Mexican people. Prices will be surging and it will make it harder for everyone in the end.

Our New Home

We were invited to a neighborhood party tonight. We saw recently made friends and met new people soon to be friends. All were gringos. Many were here in San Miguel de Allende for many years, and many were new arrivals. All seemed genuinely happy to be living here.  They loved the fact that the weather wasn't extreme, meaning that it was comfortable with no high heat and humidity.

The people we talked to were interesting, many were travelers. There were writers or people involved with writers, artists of varied medias. Many had bought a house here and some just moving into new houses, many renting like us getting a feel for the new country of Mexico. I got the feeling that most don't miss the United States, with its homogeneous cities, its hustle and stress, and lack of time; maybe its focus on time itself.

We seem to have more time here to focus on defining who we are, more time to spend with each other, more time to devote to friends and acquaintances.

For Bev and me, all of that is true. We wake in the morning or say before falling asleep, "We are living in Mexico." with wonder in our voices. We spent time here many times, but always with the knowledge that we were just visiting or on vacation. Never with the feeling until now that this is our home. Our home is exciting with the thunder storms and the rain that comes down in big drops that cause rivers in the street. It's exciting to turn the corner and discover something new. It's exciting to see the families enjoy simply being a part of a happening in the Jardin. And yet....it's not exciting, it's peaceful. There's a calmness that comes with manana. It will get done, whatever needs to be done. Kind of like a beautiful butterfly. It knows where it wants to go, but it's going to smell every flower on the way; maybe even smell a flower more than once and then come back again before moving on its way.

Follow Me to the Saturday Organic Market

By Beverly Landfair

He was playing great sax!

Melissa is in the red blouse.

As promised, I bopped up the Ancha and strolled into the Saturday Organic Market and made a bee-line for Buena Vida Bakery.  There is always a line of people waiting to get their goodies.  When it was finally my turn, I requested two cinnamon rolls for Miguel and one very tasty naranja orange doughnut for me.  I gave the owner, Melissa and staff, my regards and bid them adios.  They do a phenomenal business on Saturdays.

Karmine

Then I made my way to Karmine's stand where she sells her home-made pesto and also teaches cooking classes, and cooks at La Finestra restaurant (which we have yet to try)  This pesto is excellent and will sauce pasta for at least seven dinner plates.  As you know, there are a myriad of other uses for Pesto.  My eight oz. container was 60 pesos = $4.00.  She sells other sauces also, which we must try soon.

Derek's Dips

Next is Derek's Dips made this morning.  He uses almonds as his base.  I bought Habanero Dip to take to the party, along with some other goodies, that we are going to this evening. Derek was not there today so I missed taking his picture, but did capture his able assistant letting people sample as many dips with chips as they wanted.  After all, "The proof is in the eating."

I wanted you to get a sense of this good time happening every Saturday at this Market.  Live music, food, great coffee, and vendors selling their organic and very fine products from organic vegetables to jewelry to rugs and everything in-between.  Thanks for joining me!

Cafe area

Let's Talk Bakeries!

By Beverly Landfair

It is almost the week-end!  Let's talk about bakeries.  The three bakeries that we will be discussing are all in Centro and relatively close to each other.

Buena Vida

One of my favorites is La Buena Vida.  My picture shows the brick and mortar store.  Tomorrow at the Saturday Organic Market there will be three times as many offerings.  For instance, my fav, the orange doughnut is sold out already from the above store, but at the market tomorrow they will have been baking all night and will have one that is warm and melts in my mouth.  That is my fantasy anyway. Count on some pictures.

Petite Fleur

Petite Fleur

Around the corner is an excellent bakery which specializes in cakes and confections that are mind-blowingly tasty called Petite Fleur.  You can watch them create five layer cakes and other delights.  The cookies and breads are rich with butter.  You can not go wrong with any selection that you choose here.

Cumpanio

Cumpanio is a favorite in San Miguel and very popular with all.  This is an upscale bakery visitors to this city gravitate to.  Just grab a tray and take what looks scrumptious. This bakery has an adjacent restaurant that is good also.  I think of Cumpanio as an up-scale bakery.

Tomorrow:  The Organic Saturday Market 

Mega, Super Bonanza and "No Name" Grocery Stores

By Beverly Landfair

Mega Comercial Mexicana San Miguel de Allende

Going to the above stores for a couple spices and whipping cream for a recipe is no small task.  All of the above stores probably have what I need, but they are disguised with Mexican subtitles.  I needed ground Cumin today.  Little did I know that it is called "Comino" here.  It is an adventure!

Mega is a modern, commercial Mexican grocery store and more, a one shop center.  I am slowly figuring out how to navigate the aisles.  Some items are easy to find like cereals, just find your box on the shelf.  Popcorn kernels are kept with the packaged raw beans nicely hidden on a third shelf.  Every time I find what I am looking for I say, "Yay! and start acting like I own the place.  I do love the challenge.  The assortment is wonderful and it is bright and accessible.

Super Bonanza

Super Bonanza

Super Bonanza is sandwiched on Mesones Street and is another original experience.  Here they do a lot of catering to Canadians and Americans but you still need to be vigilant.  Eggs in San Miguel are sold loosely and are not refrigerated.  We are still among the living and buy them often.  I see some Americans here walking around glassy eyed, mouths open, searching for foods that look familiar.  Anyone who is learning Spanish is definitely ahead of the game.

No Name Tienda

I love "No Name" which we affectionately call this tienda (store) because it is a family run operation, but has no name on the front of the store.  They have some great taco chips for parties for only 14 pesos. (.99)  All stores are clean and really try to be helpful.

No Name tienda with 14 peso chips on bottom shelf

Learning Curve

By Beverly Landfair

Who knew that you could not buy all your fruits and vegetables in one place?  I go to about 3-4 different and wonderful stores for different fruits or vegetables. In most cases, all is fresh as in just picked.  Another learning curve was figuring out what a "kilo" actually is?  Answer: About two pounds, 2 Lbs, so when I see veggie prices per kilo it is usually an unbelievably great price. 

Limes, huge avocados, grapefruit, watermelon, melons, etc. are sweeter and juicier here.  This is the broccoli capital of Mexico, so I say, "get steaming."  We are saving about 50% of what we paid in Portland for our fruits and vegetables.
For instance, I bought about one pound of Brussel Sprouts from Alex this morning, that's Alex at the top, and he charged me 15 Pesos = $1.00.

I do not pop grapes, berries, cherry tomatoes in my mouth in the above stores because when I get home I wash them in a disinfectant solution for about 10 minutes to rinse all the bad nasties away.  I have not been sick yet.  Some people have gotten deathly ill from eating the above without proper procedures.

Mega, the biggest store in town (think Fred Meyer) has decent fruits and vegetablesm, but I prefer to support the little guy.  I am hooked on jicama and am getting into papaya also.  This is all a colorful new adventure that tastes great!

NEXT UP:  SHOPPING FOR OTHER FOOD ITEMS

Bev Landfair Joins Mexico Calling As Writer

As Beverly Landfair, I am accepting your invitation to blog on your site as I see fit.

Aqueduct of Padre Tembleque Hydraulic System

Mexico News Daily announced that "Mexico now has 33 UNESCO World Heritage Sites following the addition yesterday of the Aqueduct of Padre Tembleque to the list."

Built between 1554 and 1571, the aqueduct is noted for its series of arches, three in total, of which the Main Arcade with 67 arches is the tallest at 39 meters. It crosses the Papalote River near Santiago Tepeyahualco.

This 16th century aqueduct is located between the states of Mexico and Hidalgo, on the Central Mexican Plateau. This heritage canal system encompasses a water catchment area, springs, canals, distribution tanks and arcaded aqueduct bridges. The site incorporates the highest single-level arcade ever built in an aqueduct. Initiated by the Franciscan friar, Padre Tembleque, and built with support from the local indigenous communities, this hydraulic system is an example of the exchange of influences between the European tradition of Roman hydraulics and traditional Mesoamerican construction techniques, including the use of adobe.

It's amazing to me that Columbus sailed in 1492 and half a century later we have such sophisticated structures in Mexico

A Trip to the ER

About 9:00 pm, I got a call from our good friends and neighbors. "It's an emergency." Can you take my husband to the hospital? The four of us piled into the car and drove to the emergency room over on the Libremiento. Bev and I dropped the two off at the door and parked the car. We had no idea how long we would be here. Judging by the States and my visits to places like this, we could be here for six to eight hours. Instead when we got to the waiting room, the emergency staff was already seeing  to his kidney stone(s). The docs said he needed to stay the night and they needed 7,500 pesos as a down payment, about $500.

The sky opened up as we ran through the deluge for the car. The lightning was flashing overhead. We fought high water all the way home. The rain was coming off the roof's gutters. It was like driving through a waterfall. We were home by 10:30 pm. Imagine, round trip in an hour and a half.

One note: When we first started coming to Mexico the exchange rate was 10 pesos to a dollar. Today it is 15.82 to the dollar. Assuming the hospital prices haven't gone up, in the past the down payment would have been 5,000 pesos not 7,500. That is a huge increase. In all probability, the price would probably been $300 to $400.

We have found the medical care to be excellent.

The tabletop as art display space: Ceramic mosaic tops by Furthur

The LA Times today reports that for some time "...tables with ceramic-tiled tops have often been relegated to patio and pool areas — strictly outdoors.

But that's changing, says Michelle Arias, who, with her husband, Raymond, opened Furthur on Sunset Boulevard 20 years ago. Tables adorned with 4-by-4-inch Mexican azulejos (ceramic wall tiles) are now in-home worthy because the quality of the tiles that she gets in Dolores Hidalgo, about a 40-minute drive north from San Miguel de Allende in central Mexico, has so vastly improved.

Azulejos can be traced to Moorish influences in the Iberian peninsula. Both there and in Mexico they became an obvious status statement — ornamental wall art that also functioned as a temperature moderator. Azulejos turned up on walls, floors, ceilings and were featured in churches and royal mansions

Read More Here

Melting Glaciers Revealing More Than Bare Earth

A mummified body photographed on March 5, 2015 is the body of a man discovered by Mexican alpinists on Pico de Orizaba, Mexico. Ice melting on the mountain caused by global warming exposed the mummy. ISRAEL ANGEL MIJANGOS — EPA/EFE

Read more here: http://www.mcclatchydc.com/2015/06/19/270558/as-globe-warms-melting-glaciers.html#storylink=cpy

CIUDAD SERDAN, MEXICO — As a result of warming temperatures, Mexico’s tallest volcano, Pico de Orizaba, is performing an all-natural striptease, the ice patches near its summit melting away to bare rock.

The same process is taking place in the permafrost of Russia, the ice fields of the Yukon and the glaciers of New Zealand. And as the once-frozen world emerges from slumber, it’s yielding relics, debris – and corpses – that have laid hidden for decades, even millennia.

The thaw has unnerved archaeologists, given hope to relatives of lost mountain climbers and solved the mysteries of old plane crashes.

What emerges is not always apparent – or even pleasant. That pungent smell? It’s a massive deposit of caribou dung in the Yukon that had been frozen for thousands of years, and now is decomposing in the air, its sharp odor unlocked.

Pico de Orizaba towers above all other mountains in Mexico at 18,491 feet. It is the highest peak in North America after Mount McKinley in Alaska and Mount Logan in Canada’s Yukon Territory. A challenging dormant volcano, Orizaba is a training ground for those interested in high-altitude climbing.

For a handful of climbers, it has been their last peak. They’ve been buried by avalanches or swallowed by crevasses. Now, the mountain is spitting back their bodies.

Late in February, a climbing party circled the jagged crater atop Orizaba.

“One of them slipped, and they later said he skidded down and came to a stop. When he got up, he saw a head poking out of the snow,” said Hilario Aguilar Aguilar, a veteran climber.

It was a mummified climber, a member of a Mexican expedition hit by an avalanche on Nov. 2, 1959. Some climbers fell near the Chimicheco Ridge, their bodies frozen in an icy time machine, only to re-emerge 56 years later.

Hearing of the macabre discovery, prosecutors dispatched Aguilar and other climbers March 4 to document the scene of death.

“Upon clearing away some snow so that I could take some photographs, I saw another hand. Suddenly, there were one, two, three hands. It didn’t seem possible. Digging a little more, we discovered that there was another body,” Aguilar said.

The natural fiber rope connecting the two bodies had disintegrated to little more than a stain in the ice, he added. Aguilar said one of the mummified climbers appeared to be wearing remnants of a red sweater.

“I tried to bring a piece as a sample, for evidence, but it turned to dust when I touched it,” he said, adding that the mummified bodies are unlikely to be retrieved from the mountain until weather clears, perhaps in November.

Read More here

"Live Large - Live Abroad"

Nicholas Kontis, Travel Insider and Founder of World Travel List writes in Huffington Post:

Travel author, blogger and web entrepreneur, Tim Leffel, like myself, has chosen Mexico as his base outside the U.S. Tim and I live fantastic lives living in the land of the mariachis and the home of Tequila.

As Tim points out in his book, A Better Life for Half the Price, you can cut your expenses in half by living abroad, or, as I like to call it, you can be "living large". Imagine if you could keep or make the same salary as in the U.S., Canada, Northern Europe or Australia, but double or more your buying power, you would be spending less, but living a more fulfilling life. Depending on the country you migrate to, your disposable income and lifestyle will change dramatically.

Read More Here

Artisan Vacation Club Coming to San Miguel

Artisan Riveiera Maya

Interval International, a prominent worldwide provider of vacation services and an operating business of Interval Leisure Group (Nasdaq: IILG), announced the affiliation of Artisan Vacation Club, a points-based club with four luxury resorts in highly demanded vacation destinations in Mexico. The concept, combining mixed-use resorts in beach and urban locations, was the brainchild of Manuel Perez Alpuche, whose two decades of experience in the vacation ownership industry includes developing some of Mexico's most luxurious vacation clubs.

“As the leisure travel market continues to grow in Mexico, this is a wonderful opportunity to increase our presence in a variety of appealing settings, from the iconic beaches of Playa del Carmen to the Spanish Colonial streets of San Miguel de Allende,” said Alpuche, president at Artisan Vacation Club. “Interval’s executives shared our vision for creating a distinctive portfolio highlighting Mexico's diverse cultural treasures and provided invaluable guidance every step of the way. We are thankful for their expertise and ongoing support.”

“Artisan Vacation Club has developed an outstanding product that provides travelers with the quality and flexibility they are seeking,” noted Marcos Agostini, Interval’s senior vice president of resort sales and business development for Latin America. “Its beautifully appointed properties receive excellent reviews, and we look forward to supporting the expansion of a brand increasingly recognized for its exceptional service and attention to detail.”

In the planning stages, Artisan San Miguel Allende will be six blocks from The Jardin, or main square, of the celebrated Spanish Colonial town of San Miguel de Allende. The UNESCO World Heritage Site in the foothills of the Sierra Madre, three hours north of Mexico City, was voted "The World's Best City" by the readers of Conde Nast Traveler magazine in 2013. This 80-unit property will include a swimming pool, bar, restaurants, concierge, complimentary parking, and wireless Internet.

Sustainable Tourism, Key for Growth

This is an exciting time for Mexico. Its economy is the 14th largest in the world in nominal terms; it has signed 12 different trade agreements with 44 countries; and its domestic market has more than 112 million people – the third largest in Latin America and the 11th largest in the world. With an urban population of 78%, the country’s statistics reflect its forward-looking attitude, making it a great choice for both business and leisure.

Read more at The WorldFolio

Domingo de Los Locos

On the Sunday closest to June 13, San Miguel is taken over by los locos "crazies". Bev and attended in the hot sun.We left the casita at 11:30am and finally found a seat on the curb between Mexican families by Bellas Artistes. They say in Atencion that 15,000 people will participate in the parade dressed in all manner of costumes.

In the past San Miguel was surrounded by orchards of a apples, pears, plum, peaches etc. and each year the owners invited the workers into the orchards to eat as much as they wanted. They involved the church and dressed as orchard workers wearing jumpers, long sleeve shirts, boots and hats. There was lots of dancing and soon spectators began gathering to watch the fun. To scare the watchers away, the workers started dressing as animals: skunks, raccoons, pelicans and other animals. The audience began calling them locos. This parade is a celebration called Domingo de Los Locos.

It takes a long time for 15,000 to pass by. However the sights are unforgettable. As the participants filed by dancing to ultra loud music, they tossed candy to the crowd, especially  the children. It was like Halloween in a way.

Always there are children and even candied apples.

Learning Spanish

Bev's Spanish lessons are paying off for me. When I've met a Mexican, I have always asked Come se llamo? They look at me strangely and point to themselves with a questioning look on their faces. "Me," they seem to ask.
I say, "si."
"Jose," they respond.

I wondered what their problem was with my Spanish. Today I learned what I was saying was, " Come se llamo? What am I called? Well, that's a guessing game isn't it. How would they know what I'm called, other than crazy gringo. He has forgotten his name.

I should have said, "Como te llamas? What is your name or how are you called?

Me llamo, Miguel is correct for I am called Michael.

Now maybe I won't get strange looks anymore.

Tropical Storm CARLOS

The hurricane center has a tropical storm on its radar named Carlos. The National Weather Center has the storm brushing the coast about where Puerto Vallarta is, then another possible track derecho straight ahead to Cab San Lucas.

It is predicted that Tropical Storm Carlos will become a hurricane between this Friday and Saturday. The storm is currently packing sustained winds of 50 MPH.