Aylin Öney Tan writing in the Daily News informs us about the origins of moles and Mexican cooking:
"Exactly 18 years ago, I was at the National Day of Mexico reception at
Singapore Raffles Hotel. Finally, I would be able to taste the legendary
mole poblano, wild turkey smothered in the scary dark bitter
chocolate-chili sauce with a zillion spices. I fell in love the moment I
tasted it, but ours would be a love of separation and longing. My
instant decision to go to Mexico as soon as possible was never realized
and I seldom had the chance to taste real authentic Mexican food again.
"I
was always amazed by the diversity of Mexican food, and I thought we
had much to share between the two countries. So many tastes and dishes
seemed to be so similar. Years later, about eight years ago, I met a
culinary historian friend living in Mexico who opened up a whole new
world in my perception of Mexican food. Rachel Laudan, the author of the
recent colossal book “Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in Word History,” has
lived in Mexico City for many years. I met Rachel at the Oxford
Symposium on Food & Cookery, where she was immensely supportive of
my first paper delivered to an audience of crème de la crème of food
researchers. Rachel has a very interesting theory on how
Spanish-influenced-Mexican food had its roots in Middle East, going as
far as India. I could not agree more. When I was doing my research on
Turkish-Sephardic cookery, I traced similar links between the cuisines
of Andalusia and medieval Arab cooking, which sometimes explains why we
find some Mexican tastes so very much like ours.
"The cookery of
the Iberian Peninsula before Columbus discovered the Americas carried
strong traces from the early Medieval Arabic cuisine from the Middle
East. The same was very true for the Ottoman court. Two cookbooks, 13th
century Iberian Al-Andalus and 15th century Ottoman Şirvani, were both
greatly based on the early 13th century Baghdad text Kitab al-Tabikh,
also known as al-Baghdadi. Many Muslims and Jews living in medieval
Spain were originally from eastern Mediterranean countries, still
maintaining their eating habits. Ziryab, a freed slave from Baghdad,
brought over the latest fashions in the Abbasid capital to al-Andalus in
the 9th century and introduced the practice of dining in courses to the
West. The eastern tastes were synthesized in Spain to an even greater
sophistication where people of all creeds intermingled. These cooking
traditions were carried to Mexico by the first Spanish conquistadors,
followed later by many Middle Eastern immigrants after the break of the
Ottoman Empire. The latter is more responsible with el Pastor being a
popular street food in Mexico, just like the Döner Kebab in Turkey,
Souvlaki in
Greece
or Shawarma (from Turkish çevirme-to rotate) in Syria or Lebanon. The
former influence however, may well be the reason for today’s mole dishes
in Mexico. Laudan suggests the Mexican mole has roots deep in these
historical connections, stretching the influences as far as Indian
curry. Well, the result is a delightful combination of indigenous
ingredients like cocoa or Mexican bitter chocolate & red hot chilies
with a plethora of old-world spices on the only truly native
American bird, that is the turkey!"
Further reading: https://www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/2004/the.mexican.kitchen.s.islamic.connection.htm